Straight talking: the decorative art

This week in class we studied the 20th century and fashion magazines. We also looked into fashion magazine editing. For my blog post I will be discussing 20th century Art Deco jewellery.

Art Deco began preceding the end of World War I, in 1918 (Bryant 2001). The period was marked as a post-war rebirth and was a rejection of the old in order to embrace the new (Pieces of Eight Gallery 2009). The pieces of this period can be recognisable as Deco and Cubist , whilst some appear incredibly modern and timeless (Pieces of Eight Gallery 2009). This period of decadence spanned from around the 1920s to 1930s. Women were rebelling by wearing their hair in short bobs, decorating their arms with flashy bracelets and wearing dangly earrings (popular due to the short hair styles) (Gem Gossip 2009)

The name Art Deco is derived from the 1925 exhibition held in Paris called  "L'Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes."(Bryant 2001 and Mouillefarine and Posseme 2009).  


Rene Prou, design for a poster advertising the Exposition Internationalie des Arts Decoratifs et industriels Modernes, 1925, Les Arts Decoratifs, Musee de la Publicite, Paris

 

Thirty French jewellers displayed their pieces at the exhibition (Bryant 2001). Three of them (Jean Fouquet, Gerard Sandoz and Raymond Templier) most prominently displayed pieces suited to the time, such as those with:

"simple, geometric forms, clearly defined volumes contained within large, flat surfaces ending with sharp edges, solid colors offsetting each other, and diverse materials, including precious stones and metals"
(Bryant 2001, p.1)

Additionally, Gabardi (1989) defined the fundamental principles of Art Deco jewellery to be:

"linearity, geometrical forms, emphasis on stylisation, sharp edge and chromatic audacity (lot of colour contrasts"
(p. 31)

The two sources here agree that colours were contrasted against each other and that geometric forms were prominent in the designs. Such features can bee seen in Jean Fouquet's brooch below and through the collection of pieces from various jewellers of the time.



Jean Fouquet Brooch, 1925



Selection of Art Deco jewellery created by Jean Depres, Jean Dunand, Georges Fouquet, Jean Fouquet, Gustave Miklos, Gerard Sandoz and Raymond Templier

Art Deco jewellery took great steps towards creating pieces for their artistic quality, rather than being merited for their commerical value (Gabardi 1989). In this time period, aesthetic concerns were becoming more important than concerns over the richness of materials (metals and stones) (Gabardi 1989).

Art Deco was a brief period in history, however it has left a great mark on jewellery thereafter (Gabardi 1989). It is possible to detect hints of Art Deco styles in pieces following on from the period (Gabardi 1989). Art Deco examples how style does not have a set start and finish date- aspects of styles will continue even after the period itself has finished (Gabardi 1989)

This is exampled in Art Deco's revival in popularity (Bougalt 2000). Pieces have been sold for a tremendous amount, like the 1925 Cartier Tutti Frutti bracelet, which sold for $456,000 in 1999 (Bougalt 2000). The piece was later re-sold in 2011 for nearly $963,000! As discussed in the link below:



 

 This growth in demand and popularity is said to be attributed to the high demand and scarce quantity of originals (Lyons 2001). In recent times people have really begun to appreciate the craftsmanship of Art Deco jewellery (Lyons 2001) The most popular, it is said, are the straight line bracelets like the Tutti Frutti Cartier piece (Lyons 2001). The Art Deco period has come through not only in jewellery but also in fashion, the aesthetics of the time continue to be popular for all ages (Melhuish 2011)

 

So, are we finally remembering and recognising the beauty of pieces versus mass produced cheap items? Clearly the short Art Deco period has created a scarcity for the pieces, increasing desirability.

 

From current high street pieces it is clear that Art Deco, despite being short lived, continues to influence and affect current designs.

(Pieces are from Topshop, River Island and New Look)